domingo, 6 de junio de 2010

Restaurante Cuatro, Barcelona



Restaurante Cuatro
, Barcelona, 14 mayo de 2010

Cuatro es uno de esos restaurantes escondidos en una calle de Ciutat Vella, que tendrán la difícil tarea de procurarse la clientela con el buen hacer y el boca a boca.

La cuestión es que trabajo casi al lado de este local, he visto sus cambios de orientación y de dirección. Hace pocos meses un nuevo equipo de sala y cocina lleva las riendas de este pequeño restaurante situado en el límite del Barrio del Raval a pocos metros de las Drassanes y prácticamente enfrente de donde encontrábamos el famoso Cangrejo, casi al final de la rambla de Barcelona, inundadas ya por un constante desfile de turistas a los cuales se les “aconseja” este año que no vayan con el pecho al descubierto por cuestiones de decoro.


El local de corte moderno, informal, paredes de ladrillo visto y mesas de mármol. La iluminación íntima, en un espacio bastante diáfano que cuenta con muy pocas mesas y una barra más que generosa que brinda la posibilidad de simplemente tomar un café o una copa en un local más que agradable..

La oferta de Cuatro pasa por una carta de medias raciones y un menú degustación a 50 € para dos personas, el cuál confecciona el cliente a su gusto, eligiendo cinco platos de entre toda la carta más un postre.

La dirección de la sala y todo lo relacionado con ella va cargo de Jaume, de una manera informal y agradable, poniendo de manifiesto que la profesionalidad puede llevarse de muchas maneras.
En un extremo del local se unen la barra y la cocina, con Vicente i Aitor delante de los fogones, sacando adelante la interesante oferta culinaria que nos proponen

Un equipo de restaurante que ha pasado por establecimientos como, Gaig, Blau, Mugaritz, Lasarte, Drolma, Espai Sucre… para encontrarse en este establecimiento Ravalero.

Optamos por el menú degustación y escogimos los siguientes platos:

Lletons de Xai arrebossats amb festucs. Mollejas de cordero rebozadas con pistachos.

Anguila fumada, bleda-rabe, iogurt i rabe picant. Anguila ahumada, rúcula, yogurt y rabano picante.

Ou potxat, crema de cigrons i botifarra negra. Huevo escalfado, crema de garbanzos y butifarra negra.

“Risotto” de gallina amb Mimolet. “Risotto” de gallina con Mimolet.

Galtes de vedella amb múrgules. Carrilleras de ternera con colmenillas.

Torrija amb pastís de parma. Torrija con pastel de parma.

Repetimos el plato de carrilleras y fuera de menú seleccionamos varios postres más, algunos que no estaban en la carta:

Selecció de formatges. Selección de quesos.

Brownie de xocolata blanca, macadamies i sorbet de ruibarbre. Brownie de chocolate blanco, macadamias y sorbete de ruibarbo

Plàtan saltejat amb gelat de xocolata i coco. Plátano salteado con helado de chocolate y coco.

Mousse de xocolata negra, oli d’oliva i pà. Mouse de chocolate negro, aceite de oliva i pan

Comentar que el huevo escalfado varió y se nos sirvió acompañado de crema de coliflor y tocino.

Vinos y demás.

MANIUM, mencía 2007, crianza. D.O. BIERZO. 14,5 % vol. Bodegas Abanico. 15 €. Color cereza picota muy vivo, ribete violaceo. Nariz vegetal de mediana intensidad, con recuerdos florales (magnolia) sobre un fondo de frutas negras (ciruela), aromas especiados de crianza en barrica. En boca equilibrado, agradable pero con presencia del alcohol, amplio. Postgusto no excesivamente largo, en retronasal aromas de barrica de roble. Un vino interesante al que tal vez le falte algo de crianza en botella.

El pan, de una de las mejores panaderías de Barcelona “Baluard”, un pan de miga consistente y compacta. Muy bueno. www.baluardbarceloneta.com

Aperitivos.

Una copa de Cava Colet y unas aceitunas iniciaron la cena. Invitación de la casa.

Los Platos.

Mollejas de cordero rebozadas con pistachos. 8 €. Una fritura excelente, el rebozado crujiente y la molleja jugosa en su interior percibiéndose en boca el pistaño y unas notas alimonadas con las que supongo estaban aderezadas las mollejas. Un entrante muy acertado, si bien el sabor del rebozado ocultaba el delicado sabor de la molleja. Para los que seguís habitualmente el blog, podeís ver que las mollejas son para mí uno de los platos más interesantes, así como la casquería en general y por norma si aparecen en una carta siempre las solicito.

Anguila ahumada, rúcula, yogurt y rábano picante. 7,5 €. La anguila, muy jugosa, con un glaseado agridulce, su marcado sabor y notas ahumadas, proporcionaban una agradable combinación con el dulce de la remolacha, el amargor de la rúcula y la untuosa acidez del yogurt. Un conjunto muy agradable.

Huevo escalfado, crema de coliflor y panceta. 7 €. Una vez más una excelente ejecución técnica de todos los componentes del plato, el tocino salteado perfecto, muy jugoso y en su punto, al igual que el huevo y la crema en la cuál se percibía con total nitidez el sabor a coliflor. Terminaba el plato un cordón de jugo de carne y unas notas de aceite trufado.

“Risotto” de gallina con Mimolette. 9 €. Un risotto muy correcto, elaborado con caldo de gallina, mantecado con queso Mimolette* y algo de crema de leche.

* Mimolette o Boule de Lille, queso elaborado con leche de vaca sin cocer, de pasta semi-dura de color anaranjado. Se elaboraba tradicionalmente el Lille, población situada al norte de París.

Carrilleras de ternera con colmenillas. 12,5 €. Una de las carnes que más aprecio por encima de entrecots y solomillos. Las carrilleras braseadas, jugosas, en su punto. Iban acompañadas por un puré de patata aromatizado con vainilla y la salsa del propio estofado, perfumada con unas colmenillas. Un plato correcto, si bien, personalmente la patata aromatizada con vainilla no me terminó de cuadrar.

Selección de quesos, 10 €. Compuesta por:

(aparecen descritos en el orden en que figuran en la foto, de izquierda a derecha)

Fougerous, procedente de Francia, elaborado en la región de Normandia, elaborado con leche de vaca. la corteza del queso va envuelta en una hoja de helecho.

Carrat, elaborado en Cataluña, en la comarca del Berguedà con leche de cabra. Es un queso de cabra de pasta blanda con la corteza cubierta de ceniza. Sabor cítrico muy fresco con recuerdos a nata fresca y a yogurt.

Pico Melero, elaborado por Granja Sardón, cerca de Valladolid,con leche de oveja de textura muy agradable, ligeramente untuoso y con el sabor característico de los quesos de oveja.

Ibar, procedente de Álava, se trata de un queso azul, elaborado con leche de vaca, paladar muy untuoso y agradable, notas picantes y sabor intenso.

Los quesos iban acompañados de una agradable mermelada de naranja amarga y de un praliné de chocolate y sal que permitían jugar con los diferentes quesos y sus contrastes dulce-salado.

Los postres

Torrija con pastel de parma. 5,35 €. La torrija, un plato de cocina hogareña, que se puso de moda y que incoherentemente aparece incluso en restaurantes de cocina de “vanguardia” mezclada con postres de corte “bulliniano”. La torrija de Cuatro, era correcta, si bien estaba algo falta de humedad en su interior. Junto a ella un mousse de queso parmesano y un helado de pera asada conformaban un conjunto de sabores muy agradables y contrastados.

Brownie de chocolate blanco, macadamias y sorbete de ruibarbo. 5,35 €. En esta ocasión el sorbete de ruibarbo, se sustituyo por un sorbete de tomate ácido. El postre formado por el brownie, el sorbete y terminado por una salsa de chocolate blanco (base de crema inglesa) ynueces de macadamia laminadas, era correcto y conseguía unos contrastes acertados entre el dulzor del pastel bien ejecutado y el excelente helado.

El Brownie de chocolate (negro o con leche), un pastel de estar por casa, que ha dado y está dando mucho juego en las cartas de postres de numerosos restaurantes, si bien a nivel personal opino que en muchos casos la sustitución del chocolate negro por chocolate blanco a fin de elaborar un postre ”nuevo” no consigue los objetivos esperados o correctos. La cobertura blanca, aislada como producto y como elemento principal de un plato deja mucho que desear a nivel gustativo, a pesar del empeño en utilizarlo en brownies, coulants y similares, aportando únicamente un componente graso y el aroma de la manteca de cacao. En este caso la insipidez propia de este tipo de brownie estaba compensando con una crema de chocolate blanco y se prestaba a la potencia gustativa del sorbete de tomate. Un postre que agradó.

Plátano salteado, chocolate y coco. 5,35 €. Sobre el plato, una de chocolate negro, potente, el plátano salteado y caramelizado, y cubriendo el conjunto una mousse de coco elaborada con sifón. Un juego de sabores muy marcados y conocidos que funcionan a la perfección, un postre muy agradable.

Un postre que me hizo recordar lo mucho que me gusta el coco y un menú de ocho platos que elaboré, en los cuales intervenía el coco en todos ellos.

Mousse de chocolate negro, aceite de oliva i pan. 5,35 €. Otro trío de sabores que remueve la memoria gustativa de mucho personal. En el plato una mousse de chocolate negro, intensa, pero muy delicada al haber pasado por el sifón, unos picatostes de pan, helado de aceite de oliva que al deshacerse impreganaba el conjunto y unas escamas de sal que ponían el contraste gustativo. No me gustan las puntuaciones, pero de diez, el único “pero” sería desde mi experiencia la presentación que necesitaría definirse mejor.

Un Café solo, cortesía de la casa.

Total de la factura: 107,93 €, precio por persona 53,9 €, teniendo el cuenta los seis platos de más que pedimos.

A modo de resumen…

Para muchos Cuatro es un “bistronómico”, término que no termino de comprender ni aceptar, que además proviene de algo tan mal “visto” en los últimos tiempos como es la cocina francesa según algunos “entendidos”

Pero al margen del empeño de “críticos” y periodistas en catalogar y hacer híbridos entre palabras para nosotros Cuatro fué un restaurante amable, en el cuál disfrutar de un buen vino de la mano de Jaume, que tiene muchas tablas en el tema y de degustar unos platos de líneas concisas y contundentes elaborados por Aitor y Vicente.

Capítulo a parte, los postres, de los cuales casi seleccionamos el mismo número que de platos. Merece la pena hacer un esfuerzo y dedicarles el espacio que se merecen.

Mis mejores deseos para este nuevo Cuatro, delante del cuál pasé anoche y estaba a rebosar (aconsejable reservar). Un espacio desenfadado, de lo más recomendable.

Restaurante Cuatro, Montserrat, 4 (final Calle Guardia, a pocos metros de la Torre Colón), Barcelona. Tel 93 301 43 24. www.4-barcelona.com

142 comentarios:

  1. No conozco el lugar Paco pero los platos tienen una pinta excelente. La mousse de chocolate negro debe estar deliciosa por su contraste de sabores; me gustaría probarla. En cuanto al brownie pues lo cierto es que estoy algo cansada de ellos y los de chocolate blanco estoy de acuerdo en que no convence.
    Un abrazo!

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  2. Atractiva propuesta sin duda. A ver si nos pasamos. Habrá que ver como lidian con el resto del barrio, turismo y turismo, sin rebajar la propuesta ni la atención al cliente. Me suena que antes había en el local un japonés, hace años... ¿es en la misma calle que el Pastís?

    ¡Un saludo paco!

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  3. No está en la calle de Pastís, tu creo que te refieres a un local que ahora se llama Before, este está en la calle perpendicular a Pastís a escasos metros.

    Un abrazo!

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  4. Muy interesante, creo que el acierto de este local está precisamente en no tener la sala (cada vez menos) convencional, el formato bistro, vamos. Y es que es verdad que la oferta de platos tiene muy buena pinta...
    Saludos:)

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  5. Visitado el sábado, aprovechando que fuimos a BCN para las fiestas de la Mercè. Optamos por el menú, escogiendo mollejas, anguila, el risotto, el bacalao y la panceta (sobre judias negras con confitura de naranja, plato que eramos los priemros en provar y del que nos pidieron opinión). Todo correcto aunque ningun plato nos pareció emocionante. Probamos la torrija, que estaba deliciosa la acaban de cambiar por una torrija de café, pero tuvieron el detalle de hacernos la version original)
    Como digo, el sitio esta bien y se puede comer correctamente de modo informal y a muy buena RCP, pero no los veo, por ahora, marcando tendencia en la bistronomía barcelonesa... o al menos, les queda mucho por recorrer. Lo mejor, las atenciones de Jaume, majísimo y muy humilde. Ojalá les vaya bien.

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  6. No es incoherente hacer ninguna preparacion en alta cocina, no entiendo tu comentario. A que vas tu a un restaurante? a explotar esferas?

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  7. No conozco este restaurante. Tiene buena pinta, aver si pronto lo visito
    Saludos
    Antonio

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