martes, 26 de mayo de 2009

Celler de Can Roca






El Celler de Can Roca, 17 de abril de 2009
De momento la joya de la corona de este blog…………
Empecemos por el local, que decir, una antigua casa, llamémosle masia remodelada totalmente, en la cuál está ubicada la cocina y un anexo moderno a rabiar en el cuál se encuentra la sala, domina el cristal, la luz. Espaciosa, cómoda, tal vez el único fallo sean cuatro mesas (de la 1 a la 4) que están ubicadas en una zona de paso con su ir y venir de camareros y clientes. El espacio entre mesas perfecto.
La clientela de lo más informal y heterogénea.
La verdad, el restaurante y los hermanos roca (la madre también, creo que el arroz es receta suya) se merecen la tercera estrella Michelin. Los precios de la carta son de lo más correcto, comparado con las cartas de otros restaurantes de ** y *** estrellas. Da la sensación de querer llegar a casi todos los bolsillos.


Bodega.
Comentar antes de nada que no nos atendió Josep Roca, lo cual para mi no tiene la más minima importancia, pero en otros blog he leído comentarios sobre este mismo detalle y solo tengo que añadir que, aunque no recuerdo el nombre de quien nos sirvió el vino, lo hizo con una profesionalidad extrema. No nos convenció el sistema de presentación y transporte de la carta, parece un revistero.


La carta de vinos impresionante, tras unas cuantas indicaciones nos dejamos aconsejar por el sommelier, la verdad lo felicito.


Atteca Armas 2005, 14,5 % Vol., garnacha de viñas viejas. Bodegas Atteca. D.O. Calatayud. 55 €. Cereza picota precioso. En nariz fruta roja muy madura, ciruelas, notas de cacao, regaliz especias. La nariz del vino fue variando durante toda la noche. En boca potente, pero con un tanino y un alcohol muy bien integrado que le otorgaba redondez, final potente en el que se apreciaban más las notas de crianza. El vino fue un espectáculo, de una zona vitivinícola poco considerada y de una variedad de uva a la que tampoco se le presta demasiada atención. Un tinto que hace palidecer desde mi punto de vista a muchos prioratos, riojas y riberas del Duero.
El agua San Pellegrino, 4 €


Aperitivos.


Aceitunas caramelizadas. Aceitunas de Aragón envueltas en una película de azúcar isomalt, interesante sino se conoce el manejo de este azúcar, que si bien no es fácil, para cubrir ciertos productos resulta muy sencillo.
Teja de cacao y sésamo. Tan simple como buena una teja muy crujiente en la que se percibián claramente los dos ingredientes.
Zanahoria trufada. Zanahoria mini, al dente, bañada con una gelatina de trufa. Un aperitivo simpático en el que se percibia la intensidad de este hongo.
Chupito de hinojo, agua de mar y anguila. Un juego muy equilibrado de contrastes y sabores anisados, marinos e intensos de la anguila, en la foto inferior.


Crema de coliflor, espuma de erizo y Salicornia. De todos los aperitivos me quedo con este por la delicadeza y combinación de sabores.


Pan


Un surtido muy agradable de panes rústicos (nueces, olivas, semillas…) y un pan de tomate y otro de parmesano a modo de briox excelentes.
Primeros


Arroz de perdiz y sipia, 25,23 €. Un ejemplo impecable de un mar y montaña. El  grano, jugoso, “al dente”, con sabores marcados e intensos donde armonizaban la perdiz y la sipia. Al paladar ligeramente cremoso y con un punto graso mu adecuado. Impecable emplatado terminado con unas "virutas" de sepia y un aceite aromatizado con oliva negra.Una delicia.

Cigalas al humo de curry y Comte. 59 €. Increíbles las cigalas, en su punto justo de cocción y con el justo equilibrio de notas ahumadas para que el curry no ocultase la calidad del marisco. La presentación del plato muy bonita…pero encuentro que la cantidad de salsas y guarniciones era demasiado pequeñas para cumplir la función gustativa a parte de la meramente estética.

Segundos. Fueron tres, no queríamos marchar sin probar los platos que reseño a continuación:


Pato a la naranja. 23,36 €. Para los amantes del pato. El magret en su punto, jugoso pero no crudo. El confit, muy tierno, se deshacia en la boca en contraste con el crujiente de la piel. Acompañaban al plato un foie salteado de muy buena calidad, con su teja de pan de especias, un puré de naranja y un cordón de jugo de pato.


Pichón, anchoas, moras y olivas, 33,64 €. Las cocciones tanto de la pechuga como de los muslitos muy bien ejecutadas, el jugo de moras, simplemente era como  llevarse una mora a la boca. La base de crema de anchoas muy interesante. El único y personal problema, es que no encontraba una armonía correcta entre el sabor de la anchoa y el resto de sabores del plato. No me termino de cerrar el plato a nivel gustativo, pero insisto en lo subjetivo del paladar de cada uno.


Royal de Oca. 26,17 €. Para poner en antecedentes a quien no conozca el termino a la “Royale” o “Royal”. El termino está íntimamente ligado a la carne de caza y en concreto a la liebre, una de sus características es que entre sus componentes intervienen la sangre del propio animal y sus vísceras. En cuanto a la salsa en algunas recetas aparecen como ingredientes las trufas y el foie gras (de oca). Joan Roca nos versiona el plato con una oca en lugar de liebre y modernizándolo con un puré de mango como guarnición, a parte de su propia salsa. El resultado espectacular.
Postres. En esta ocasión los postres fueron cuatro.


Crema catalana con vainilla, 14 €. Una versión de nuestra crema catalana, excelente el sabor a vainilla, el jugo de manzana Granny Smith que la acompañaba y perfectas las cristalinas de manzana.

Miracle de Lancôme. 14 €. Una de las adaptaciones que realiza Jordi Roca de diferentes perfumes. Un diez. Una sinfonía de sabores y perfumes proporcionados por diferentes frutas y especias. Al plato lo acompañaba una muestra del perfume original para poder compara al final plato y perfume.

Viaje a la Habana. 14 €. Una genialidad. El postre lo forman en realidad dos, un mojito, compuesto de una sopa de lima, un bizcocho de ron y un granizado de menta. Por otro lado el puro de chocolate, realizado con una cobertura de chocolate y relleno con una nata a la cual se le ha incorporado el aire del humo de un puro habano. Termina el conjunto incluso la ceniza del puro, como no presentado sobre un cenicero.

Postre Láctico. 14 €. Otro espectáculo, pese a que inicialmente no me convencía, pero decidimos correr el riesgo, en esta ocasión muy agradable. El postre estaba formado por dulce de leche, helado de mató, espuma de recuit, gotas de yogur, nube de azúcar y sorbete de guayaba. Todo un juego de sabores, texturas y temperaturas. Todos ellos elaborados con leche de oveja.
Cafés y “petit tours”
No hubo copas, la cena terminó con un café a 2,50 €.


Al café lo acompañaba una caja de bombones (cacahuete, rosa, avellana, campari y fruta de la pasión) a modo de “petit tours”, todos ellos muy buenos la verdad, pero a mi modo de ver son un tanto monótonos. Preferimos un surtido de Petit tours más variados.
Total de la factura para dos: 304,93 €, o 152,47 € por persona. A tener en cuenta que pedimos 3 segundos platos y cuatro postres, más un vino que si bien no era de los caros tampoco de los más baratos.
El conjunto de la cena fue muy bueno, el servicio de sala y vinos impecables. El ambiente y el confort de las instalaciones excelente. La línea de cocina de Joan Roca: inmaculada, de una modernidad asentada sobre platos tradicionales muy agradables. Los postres a la altura de todo lo demás. Espero que de cara al 2010 les caiga la- yo creo que bien merecida- tercera estrella Michelin.
Realmente una cena increíble, merece la pena esta visita que espero recordar por mucho tiempo y como no, repetir.
Reservas, contacto....en:

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